New Orleans Day 4

When I was in NoLa back in May, I did a lot of cooking.  We had some students from the Louisiana Culinary Institute assisting us.  They were really great, easy to work with, and energetic.  

I was asked by Charlie Ruffalo, the director, to come back later in the year and spend some time at the school.  I was more than willing to take him up on the offer to spend some more time in Southern Louisiana.  The school is in Baton Rouge and it's a bit of a drive.  Charlie picked me up at 5:45 (yes, in the morning...after the game...) and we drove to the school.  The place is beautiful.  Not huge, but very well designed and CLEAN!  We spent a few hours getting some food ready, and then I presented two lectures - each just under two hours.  We talked about the business, being on TV, seafood, sustainability, work ethic, molecular gastronomy, and anything else the students wanted to know.  Had a great time, and I felt like my trip was not just about me, but being part of the place.  

Drove back to the city in the late afternoon, just as Hurricane Ida was making landfall.  

Now I've experienced New Orleans:  great food, great music, the Saints, and now a hurricane.  CHECK!

That evening we went to August Restaurant for dinner.  It's John Besh's flagship restaurant and it still kicks ass.  It was hands down the best dinner of the trip.  

New Orleans Day 3

Game Day!

I live in close proximity to Denver.  We have some rowdy fans.  We have some loyal fans.  I have never seen anything like what I experienced in and on my way to the Superdome to watch the Saints defend their undefeated record.  Hooked up with Preston for breakfast at Mother's - one of the oldest and most visited restaurants in Nola.  Speaking of loyal, they had a line down the street and a frighteningly busy interior.  "Get the debris!" was shouted to me by a passerby who could somehow tell (despite my newly purchased Saints T-shirt) that I was obviously not from here.  Needless to say, it was worth the wait.  Nothing but quick, messy food served on old chipped plates, Mother's has the heart and soul of the city that refused to die after being nearly drowned to death by Katrina.

We made our way towards the Superdome and picked up some friends along the way.  The streets were filled with marching bands, the smell of grilled food, lots of booze, and the screams and shouts of some very proud residents of this fine city.  I looked hard could not find a single soul not wearing some (if not way too much) gear representing the New Orleans Saints.  OK, there were a few Carolina fans among us, but this sentence has already wasted enough energy on them.

Long story short, the Saints win - reaching 8-0.  It was an especially tense game as they only took the lead late in the game.  "WHO DAT!?!?!?!?"

My friend Rachel asked us to meet her in the 4th quarter down near the field.  We had the thrill and pleasure of watching the end of the game from behind the goalpost.  That would have made it an unbelievable experience as it was.  But there was more....
"Do you want to meet the Saintsations?"  Um....

farewell

My friend and fellow family member of the Big Red F, Taige Smith, passed away last night.  He was one of the most outgoing, friendly, sincere, happy, and nice people I have every had the privilege of sharing a day with.  He will be forever missed but not forgotten.  He leaves in his wake a group of people saddened by his passage but uplifted by his spirit.  Always one to share a smile and a hug, Taige leaves us with the lesson to be good and kind to your fellow man.
God bless you Taige.

New Orleans Day 2

I have the feeling every day is going to start off with some very strong chicory coffee to shake off the evening before....  Not such a bad thing.  Got up and wandered the French Quarter.

Found a hole in the wall cafe and sipped coffee and ate some andouille and eggs.  A band started playing outside so I sat on the sidewalk for about 20 minutes and listened to them jam.  My buddy Preston called and we met up at Napoleon House for lunch.  The place is very very old and he showed me a building across the street that used to house slaves.  New Orleans has such a rich history - some of which is very frightening.  He also pointed out about five different haunted houses and the OLDEST BAR IN AMERICA!  So of course we had to get a beer to go....

That evening Joyce brought me to the grand opening of the National World War II Museum.  It was a really amazing event with live music, live performances, movies, great food and even fireworks.  I felt really lucky to have been here, especially during the weekend preceding Veteran's Day.  I met some really really cool old soldiers who had nothing but great stories and anecdotes.

One of my heroes, John Besh, was also debuting his newest restaurant, American Sector.  We had a sampling of appetizers and (surprise!) a few cocktails to go with it.  Next stop was the newly renovated Roosevelt Hotel for some (surprise!) cocktails to finish the night.

New Orleans Day 1

I LOVE THIS CITY!  Where else do you get off a plane, hear live jazz music, eat oysters from the half shell, get a beer to go....and you haven't even left the airport yet?!?

The sounds of Louis Armstrong filled the air as I ventured out into the Crescent City.  I checked into my hotel and got ready for dinner.  Met up with dear friends Charlie (Louisiana Culinary Institute) and Joyce (director of New Orleans Wine and Food Experience) and we headed to Commander's Palace for dinner.  I haven't been there since Top Chef and I forgot just how large this restaurant is.  They have at least 7 different dining areas and a fleet of well-heeled staff.  Chef Tory McPhail and his kitchen crew sent us out course after course of amazing Creole inspired fine cuisine.  It was amazing.  My favorites were the foie gras and pumpkin appetizer and the duck confit amuse.  The food, cocktails and great wine almost put me to sleep.  However, I was treated to some great live music and a very lively scene at Mimi's bar - apparently I was the only non-local there.

Jax 15th Anniversary

Can you believe it!?!?  15 glorious years...
I can't take responsibility for the entire life span of the fishy food temple, but I can say I've made my mark here for the past third of it.  I started at Jax on January 1st, 2004.  For the first four years, I cooked my heart out and tried to improve on an already well-oiled machine.  I came into a restaurant with a superb reputation and a staff that was untouchable.  Not a bad gig for a young chef with a lot of energy but not enough experience to start his own place.   Everything changed for me (and perhaps for Jax) a year ago when the first episode of Top Chef Season 5 aired.  I went from being a well-know chef on Pearl Street to a TV personality.

If it wasn't for the success of Jax, the generosity of owner Dave Query, and the support of the hard-working staff of this fine restaurant, I don't think I would have ever been on the show.  Needless to say, the incredibly busy 60-seat restaurant got even busier.  And when I was announced as the winner, well....you can imagine the impact.

This week, Jax Fish House has been offering throwback dishes to mark all of the wonderful years of innovative and fresh seafood served.  The last two nights, I offered up remakes of the final three courses of food I made on Top Chef.  We had a very full dining room and what seems to have been a lot of smiling faces.

My dishes:
1)  Sashimi Trio of Hiramasa, King Salmon, and Ahi Tuna with shaved fennel, avocado, grapefruit, candied grapefruit rind, soy "noodles", fennel pollen, and ginger-citrus vinaigrette
2)  Seared Scallop and Foie Gras with cardamom pain perdu, star anise preserved apples, crushed spiced pecans, apple gastrique, foie gras foam, and raw apple salad
3)  Porcini Crusted Venison Loin with chestnut-celeriac puree, wild mushrooms, haricot vert, micro celery, and blackberry demi glace

I love this restaurant and I love everyone who has made an impact on it.  From the dishwashers to the hostesses to the managers to the regular customers - Jax is a family with many members.  We all have made our mark in some way.  Some have made food, some have served cocktails, and some have caught a fish and put their picture on the wall.  I am just so proud to have been a part of such a magnificent place for the past six years and I can't wait to see what the next 15 years of Jax brings!

James Beard Dinner - Dallas

Aaahhh, back to the lone star state....
I used to arrive in Dallas every summer to spend a few fun-filled weeks with Grandma Rosalie.  Of course it was so long ago that mom could actually walk me on the plane and kiss me goodbye before strolling the tarmac back to the terminal.  How times have changed.
One thing I didn't miss was the humidity.  Fortunately for me, this trip didn't come with the overwhelming heat that I remembered as a child.  That happens in the middle of the summer.  October 2009 has brought central Texas some heavy and constant rain.   The rain wasn't really a problem, however, as 98% of my time in Dallas was spent indoors.

After leaving the two and a half fresh feet of snow covering Colorado, I arrived in Dallas.  I called up my boy Nate who just happened to be visiting his lovely girlfriend and we met up at III Forks Restaurant.  Chris Vogeli, the chef-owner, greeted us and showed us around his massive restaurant and kitchen.  This place is the epitome of the Texas Steakhouse.  They have a cooler filled with red meat and a kitchen crew that rocks out thousands of pounds of potatoes, corn, bread, and everything else that goes well with an 18oz prime strip.  The crew there is fantastic and everyone made room for us as we prepped for our dinner.
Of course I had to make a little time for my favorite band in the world, the Drive By Truckers (dbt) who just happened to be playing at the House of Blues that night.  Suffice to say, whiskey may have been consumed....
Nate and I got up earlier than we should have Thursday morning and went to work.  We prepped all day and put out two passed apps and three courses of a six course dinner.  The event was part of the Celebrity Chef Tour - Benefiting the James Beard Foundation (tour) run by my friend Jeff Black.  We sold about 90 seats and the dinner was a blast.  Everyone ate and drank their fill and had a huge private room to themselves.
Two James Beard Dinners in one week.  I feel very lucky and honored indeed.
What a great trip...

The apps I served were:  Blue Point Oysters with chile-cucumber mignonette and American Sturgeon Caviar with roast fingerlings and creme fraiche.

My three courses:

Hiramasa Sashimi with avocado, grapefruit and fennel pollen

Seared Duck Breast and Confit Leg with butternut squash, brussels sprouts and pomegranate

Porcini Dusted Venison with gnocchi, wild mushrooms and blackberry demi glace